Driver's Side Window of Car Stopped Working

Deb, upon further review, I think I would be inclined to go w the dealer. Buying parts and chasing down a shade tree mechanic is a lot of work and sometimes the replacement parts aren't quite identical to original equipment and turn into a hassle for the mechanic.

While no one wants to get taken advantage of, or waste money sometimes we're just over a barrel and have to go w what the "pros" recommend. Get it fixed and move on knowing if there is a further issue you can return it to them.
 

againstthegrain said:
Deb, upon further review, I think I would be inclined to go w the dealer. Buying parts and chasing down a shade tree mechanic is a lot of work and sometimes the replacement parts aren't quite identical to original equipment and turn into a hassle for the mechanic.

While no one wants to get taken advantage of, or waste money sometimes we're just over a barrel and have to go w what the "pros" recommend. Get it fixed and move on knowing if there is a further issue you can return it to them.
Click to expand...
I have to agree. I'm sure prices are higher at the dealer but at least it would be a guaranteed fix, wouldn't it? If there was a further problem with it she could take it back in to them because they did the original work. If she took it to a "mechanic" and it didn't work right, would he make it right? If not, and she then took it to the dealer, would they fix what the mechanic didn't? Know what I mean?

Being a woman on your own is always a iffy situation, especially when it comes to cars and car dealers and mechanics. Unless you know about car "stuff", you're at the mercy of whoever you take your car to.

I would just bite the bullet, if I were Deb, and let the dealer fix it and be done with it. Sometimes, you just don't have a choice.
 
againstthegrain said:
We know cables were loose and out of place.

Did he electrically reconnect the cables or were they just off their moorings perhaps interfering w the glass itself?

Or did he just observe the loose cables then conclude the replacement parts were an easy sale taking advantage?

Did he test the motor or regulator before concluding new parts were required?

I could see a motor or regulator going bad after 20+ years, but the "thunk" was the window dropping down not a motor failure, which may produce the smell of burning wire or struggling to get the window up.

When the window is actuated now does it go part way up and then drop back down?
Click to expand...
I can't answer any of those questions. All I know is what they said in the estimate.
 

Every year I have to have more and more repairs, then I have to keep it that much longer to feel I've gotten my investment back. I just bought 4 new tires for it about 6 months ago.

I have an acquaintance that buys a new car (Ford) every 3 years. She says it's to avoid repairing wear and tear. It seems to me that some repairs would be lees expensive that buying a whole new car that often. I suggested to her that if she does that, a lease might be the right thing for her. No, she won't lease for some reason. Everyone does what they see right in their own eyes (stubborn cusses like her and me).
 
debodun said:
Every year I have to have more and more repairs, then I have to keep it that much longer to feel I've gotten my investment back. I just bought 4 new tires for it about 6 months ago.

I have an acquaintance that buys a new car (Ford) every 3 years. She says it's to avoid repairing wear and tear. It seems to me that some repairs would be lees expensive that buying a whole new car that often. I suggested to her that if she does that, a lease might be the right thing for her. No, she won't lease for some reason. Everyone does what they see right in their own eyes (stubborn cusses like her and me).
Click to expand...
Your method is far more economical than swapping cars every 3 years. And conversely the repair expenses/tires/batteries etc are just giving back some of the savings that you've enjoyed for decades w that car. You choose a good car and you've made it pay off for you, don't sweat the small stuff.
 
The motor and regulator are separate components, they go bad independently of each other and do not need to be changed together. The motor either works or it doesn't, if it's still working you can tell them just replace the regulator.

But...labor ends up being a large part of the repair, if the motor fails in the future you're going to pay the labor all over again.

In your shoes I think you should just let them do the repair as estimated. You can afford it and it's not worth the hassle trying to save a few dollars over.
 
debodun said:
Every year I have to have more and more repairs, then I have to keep it that much longer to feel I've gotten my investment back. I just bought 4 new tires for it about 6 months ago.

I have an acquaintance that buys a new car (Ford) every 3 years. She says it's to avoid repairing wear and tear. It seems to me that some repairs would be lees expensive that buying a whole new car that often. I suggested to her that if she does that, a lease might be the right thing for her. No, she won't lease for some reason. Everyone does what they see right in their own eyes (stubborn cusses like her and me).
Click to expand...
It is ALMOST always less expensive to keep repairing an old car than buy a new one. Look at it this way, a new car is easily $40k, how many years of repairs on that old Honda can you get for $40k? A lot!

But new cars can be fun and you have the peace of mind it shouldn't be needing many repairs or breaking down and leaving you stranded.
 
There is nothing wrong with owning an old car, especially when you don't have to drive much. It gets you from here to there and has heat and A/C. It's good enough.
 
More and more people are keeping their cars instead of buying new every few years. The auto industry is probably hurting, so they make it up on repairs. Considering the most use it gets is delivering meals once a week, I probably put less than 50 miles a week on it.
 
That dealer estimate is extremely excessive and way out of line.
I would take your car to an auto body shop and have them do the window repair properly.
Just call a few auto body shops to see if they'd do it, and if not, who they'd recommend to do it.

For the battery I'd get a $10 multimeter to show you the voltage, and a $25 smart charger to constantly
condition and keep the battery at full charge. Doing these things will help the battery to last a long time.
When the battery needs replacing if ever, go to a place that would replace your car battery for a reasonable price.
 
C50 said:
It is ALMOST always less expensive to keep repairing an old car than buy a new one. Look at it this way, a new car is easily $40k, how many years of repairs on that old Honda can you get for $40k? A lot!

But new cars can be fun and you have the peace of mind it shouldn't be needing many repairs or breaking down and leaving you stranded.
Click to expand...
$40 K ? What type of cars are you buying?
You’re talking American dollars too.
 
John cycling said:
That dealer estimate is extremely excessive and way out of line.
I would take your car to an auto body shop and have them do the window repair properly.
Just call a few auto body shops to see if they'd do it, and if not, who they'd recommend to do it.

For the battery I'd get a $10 multimeter to show you the voltage, and a $25 smart charger to constantly
condition and keep the battery at full charge. Doing these things will help the battery to last a long time.
When the battery needs replacing if ever, go to a place that would replace your car battery for a reasonable price.
Click to expand...
Good advice John . You can also get what’s called a ‘code checker’ . You plug it into your car and it uses Bluetooth to communicate to your phone.
IMG_4541.jpeg
You just download the App.
 
I had a Volvo that needed 2k in repairs for 3 years in a row. Then it needed 6k and I bought a new car.

My 16 year old Toyota Corolla has 71k miles and has only needed brakes, tires and oil changes. This is probably my last car and a new one costs 23k.
 
John cycling said:
That dealer estimate is extremely excessive and way out of line.
I would take your car to an auto body shop and have them do the window repair properly.
Just call a few auto body shops to see if they'd do it, and if not, who they'd recommend to do it.

For the battery I'd get a $10 multimeter to show you the voltage, and a $25 smart charger to constantly
condition and keep the battery at full charge. Doing these things will help the battery to last a long time.
When the battery needs replacing if ever, go to a place that would replace your car battery for a reasonable price.
Click to expand...
Considering her driving habits of driving less than 50 miles a week, keeping the battery at full charge is a decent recommendation. Continuing with battery maintenance keeping the cable ends clean & the battery water full is a must.

Now about the window problem.

I only mention this because I could do that repair.

I think it's understood that the regulator has failed in some way. For her make & model the regulator can be bought on Amazon for about $47.00


https://www.amazon.com/Driver-Window-Regulator-Accord-1998-2002/dp/B07DCSQ9HG?th=1

But if it was me I'd buy the complete unit of motor & regulator for around $100.00

Living where she does seems like getting anything done is a hassle, so buying parts without someone to do the work of replacement doesn't seem feasible. Considering the age of her car getting any trade in value not looking good. She might ask her church group if they know of someone capable of doing that repair. Use verses cost of new is a decision only Deb can make.
 
John cycling said:
That dealer estimate is extremely excessive and way out of line.
I would take your car to an auto body shop and have them do the window repair properly.
Just call a few auto body shops to see if they'd do it, and if not, who they'd recommend to do it.
Click to expand...
As I already mentioned I've pre-paid for the repair. They said I had to so they could order the parts. I guess it's to show my good intent on returning.
 
debodun said:
Diagnosis on car window - bad regulator. Bad news - the car dealership didn't have the part needed - they have to order it and it will take several days. I have to go back next week. I hope the weather holds up. Bottom line to fix including "diagnostics" - $460.
Click to expand...
Dealership diagnostics = mechanic time to determine actual problem Could be $150.00.Doesn't seem reasonable but it's an industry standard charge.

Order part needed= cost of part plus markup. Motor & regulator about $115.00 + 10% mark up = $127.00. Makes no sense to put in a new regulator with an old motor.

That comes to $277.00 leaving $123.00 for repair time.

Hourly rate = could be as high as $130.00 an hour, depends on location. In Debs case kind of remote probably high due to not a lot of competition.

$460.00 sounds like a lot until the cost to run a business is calculated.

If unable to DIY & you can't order the parts needed & get a handyman capable of doing the job, then dealership repair is the only choice if keeping the car is what is wanted.
 
I'm still trying to understand why the garage said there were no fluid leaks. I have a moderate-sized oil spot on the garage floor. Last year they said that the oil pan had a leak and I never got it repaired because they said it was "labor intensive" thus implying "expensive".

oil leak.jpg
 
debodun said:
I'm still trying to understand why the garage said there were no fluid leaks. I have a moderate-sized oil spot on the garage floor. Last year they said that the oil pan had a leak and I never got it repaired because they said it was "labor intensive" thus implying "expensive".

View attachment 348850
Click to expand...
This video explains why the dealership said it's labor intensive.

Not really much of an oil leak. For a car this old & driven so little some oil dry for the floor & checking the oil on the dipstick to add when needed beats the cost to replace the pan gasket.
 
debodun said:
I'm still trying to understand why the garage said there were no fluid leaks. I have a moderate-sized oil spot on the garage floor. Last year they said that the oil pan had a leak and I never got it repaired because they said it was "labor intensive" thus implying "expensive".

View attachment 348850
Click to expand...
That looks like water. Sometimes engines will sort of sweat, or condensation builds up and then drips off, particularly when you use the AC. Because I don't see any color, I'm sure it's nothing to fret over.
 

You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top