Almost a classic car

The problem I have is that if I own something for a long time, I tend to personify it. That car is like an old friend - we've been through a lot together.
Unless you have a very short life, this car is not going to make it to the end with you.

Find a new car that suits you and learn to love it. Or get a lease and become best friends.

It’s time to stop spending good money on a car that has many things that no longer work.

You need a safe vehicle!
 
The corrosion around the junction block is a disaster waiting to happen. The corroded short lines on 3 wheels look like they would need to be torched to even get the nut to turn. One line is wet and that will probably be the first to give out. Odd how the one replaced wheel line is metal - usually don’t see that.
I believe they are giving you a fair analysis.
I am always on the side of keeping older cars going, especially if they are of good quality like Toyota/Honda/Subaru. I spent $4k on maintenance for my 15 year old F150 pickup last year, because to replace it with a similar model would be about $60k. No way I am doing that.
 
This is a message the garage emailed to me. It has a video of the underside of my car with mechanic's narration. Opinions requested.

https://app.mykaarma.com/service-cart/mpi/bBQ_HSZDLFeykd5rki90UpdB6vBtcZGtBFy6GSMV9X0/detail
My opinion is yes there's lots of corrosion. Is something about to burst? Who knows. The wet line is for sure an issue, even if it doesn't burst a slow leak will cause a loss of brake fluid and eventually loss of brakes. The good news is most cars after the 1960s feature dual reservoirs for brake fluid, so if you blow a front brake line you still have back brakes.

I'll say this, $2,200 to replace all the lines and the junction box probably isn't a terrible price, it's a bit of a job and the corrosion and rust make it a bit harder.
 
Only you know what your finances are & how much you are willing to pay. Not likely you will get much for your "antique" So shopping for a new car you might as well figure on paying the full price plus state taxes. Then what works best paying cash or in payments?
I think you are pretty good with spread sheets so use that ability to be able to help you decide.

I wouldn't feel good selling the car to someone that isn't able to afford much. Especially with the brake system needing repaired. Trade it with a dealership so that if resold you shouldn't have any responsibility if the brakes do fail for a new owner.
 
Last edited:
This is a message the garage emailed to me. It has a video of the underside of my car with mechanic's narration. Opinions requested.
I wouldn't even put enough money to fill up the gas tank. As a former mechanic from the Amsterdam NY area I have worked on plenty of rusted out junk. You have nothing but pending trouble with that car, even after this repair.
 
Deb when they get that old you can't help but keep on driving it just to see how long it will last. I'd buy a new car just to have at the ready but keep driving that one until it dies.
I was about to say the same thing. or a newer used car.
 
Just a thought, some states put severe limitations on vehicles that are issued antique tags. I lived in Iowa and Illinois previously and one of those states limited driving your antique vehicle only to and from car shows, etc. You were no allowed to drive an antique vehicle as a daily driver with antique tags on it. I have no idea about Pennsylvania antique tag rules, but I assume you will check this out.
The only exceptions that I have read in the Pennsylvania book of penal codes is that any vehicle with antique tags cannot be used as a daily driver, but may be driven as any other vehicle only once per week and is limited to being driven in club activities and celebrations like parades, etc. I don’t know how the police are supposed to monitor those activities, but it’s another one of those arbitrary laws that are difficult to enforce. I do know that insurance companies also only allow a vdhicle that is being claimed as “antique” are subject to x miles per year, which the number of miles the vehicle may be driven yearly slips me at the moment.
 
I got another estimate today. That mechanic didn't give me a written quote, but said, "We're looking at a minimum of $1600."
I have three estimates now: Honda seemed expensive, the second wouldn't accept personal checks in payment, this guy today didn't give anything in writing and he didn't have my appointment in his schedule.
 
Last edited:
I got another estimate today. That mechanic didn't give me a written quote, but said, "We're looking at a minimum of $1600."
I have three estimates now: Honda seemed expensive, the second wouldn't accept person checks in payment, this guy today didn't give anything in writing and he didn't have my appointment in his schedule.
No written estimate? Didn't have an appointment in his schedule? Like ever?? lol
I'd say he didn't want the job, and wouldn't give it to him if he did.
 
I would trade it for a new one or stick with the Honda dealer for the repairs if you want a professional that stands behind their work with some sort of limited warranty, ie thirty days on parts and labor.

I’m afraid that if you don’t act soon the prices will begin to go up due to the increased costs of shipping, etc…

Good luck!
 
stick with the Honda dealer for the repairs if you want a professional that stands behind their work with some sort of limited warranty
I've been leaning that way. These corner garages don't seem very inclined and I feel Honda understands their cars the best and don't seem frightened to touch anything. I have to make a decision soon, it's starting to leave spots on the garage floor just in front of the left back tire - I assume it's brake fluid. There goes my IRS refund!
 
I've been leaning that way. These corner garages don't seem very inclined and I feel Honda understands their cars the best and don't seem frightened to touch anything. I have to make a decision soon, it's starting to leave spots on the garage floor just in front of the left back tire - I assume it's brake fluid. There goes my IRS refund!
Refund, what’s a refund?

The techs at your local Honda dealership may not be any better qualified than the folks at the corner garage but Honda has deeper pockets and is better equipped to stand behind their work.

“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten “
- Ben Franklin
 
I've been leaning that way. These corner garages don't seem very inclined and I feel Honda understands their cars the best and don't seem frightened to touch anything. I have to make a decision soon, it's starting to leave spots on the garage floor just in front of the left back tire - I assume it's brake fluid. There goes my IRS refund!
It's not difficult to check the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder.
checking the brake fluid in a 2002 honda civic - Search Videos

If it is low you know for sure you have a leak.
Understanding you are concerned about your failing eyesight & losing driving privileges only you can decide what to do.
 
I made an appointment at another garage that I've patronized before. The person I spoke with said if the brake lines are leaking, he wouldn't allow me to drive it out of the shop. This sound like a high-pressure ploy to make me have that shop do the repairs. I posted that question on a legal help website and this was the reply:


Question: Can a mechanic refuse to let me drive my car if it's unsafe?

Answer: This is an excellent question, and the short answer is: generally, no, a mechanic cannot simply refuse to let you take your own car, but there are important nuances under New York law.

Under New York law, your vehicle is your personal property. A mechanic or garage does not have the right to hold your car hostage solely because they believe it is unsafe to drive. There is no general legal authority in New York that permits a private repair shop to detain your vehicle against your will based on their safety assessment alone.

However, there are a few important exceptions and considerations:

1. Garage Keeper's Lien: Under New York Lien Law, a repair shop has the right to retain possession of your vehicle if you owe them money for authorized repairs or storage. This is known as a garage keeper's or garageman's lien. But this only applies when work was performed with your consent and payment is outstanding. Since you mention you had no prior agreements with this mechanic regarding the condition of your car, this lien would likely not apply unless you authorized and received repair work that you have not paid for.

2. State Safety Inspections: New York has a mandatory vehicle safety inspection program. If your vehicle is at a registered inspection station and fails the safety inspection, the shop can reject the inspection sticker, meaning your car would not pass inspection and could not legally display a valid inspection sticker. However, even in this situation, the shop generally cannot physically prevent you from taking your car. You would simply be driving without a valid inspection, which could result in a traffic citation.

3. Liability Concerns: Many shops will ask you to sign a liability waiver or acknowledgment that they informed you the vehicle is unsafe before releasing it to you. This protects the shop from potential negligence claims if you are involved in an accident due to the condition they identified. This is a common and reasonable practice.

4. What You Can Do: If a mechanic is refusing to release your vehicle and you do not owe them money for authorized work, you have the right to demand your car back. If they still refuse, you can contact local law enforcement, as the shop may be engaging in unlawful detention of your property. You can also file a complaint with the New York State Department of Motor Vehicles, which oversees registered repair shops.

That said, please take the mechanic's safety concern seriously. A corroded and leaking brake line is a genuinely dangerous condition that could lead to brake failure. Even if you have the legal right to drive away, doing so with compromised brakes puts you and others at serious risk. You may want to consider having the car towed to another shop for a second opinion or repair estimate.
 
If the brake lines are leaking, they are not far away from being not working. Does the brake pedal feel spongy? If so, you should should either: get the brakes fixed, or stop driving the car, before you get into an At Fault accident.
 
Deb I've been reluctant to mention this but since you seem focused on spending as little as possible....why not just have the leaky section replaced?

I seem to remember you posted a picture of the leak and it looked to be at the end of the flex line, that's a replacable section, probably a $30 part. It's possible that the fittings are so corroded other sections will also need replaced but the mechanic deals with that as it happens.

Doing it that way may not be in your best interest, there's no guarantee another section won't start leaking the next day. That's why I didn't want to suggest the miserly approach.
 
I've considered many options - just having the leaky part replaced (which most of the garage's I've consulted won't do), do a full brake line replacement, or trading the old beauty in for another car.
@debodun , maybe consider this: getting the full brake line replacement...thus avoiding the whole "getting a nuther car" nightmare, and being able to continue driving the old beauty safely, for another few years.
 
A car that's paid for is worth far more than today's new cars.

Every day that I drive for free is a high-five day.

I bought a Honda Accord 2006 with 138,000 miles on it in 2012. It hasn't turned over to 200,000 mi yet but its close.

The AC stopped working last summer so my mechanic did something to it and it still didn't work. That was at the end of the summer so I figured I'd have replace the expensive parts this year. Well the AC worked this year so no need to put it in the shop.

Also, it was stalling this year so I thought that this is it for this car.

My only hope was that my mechanic can fix it. He gave it a tune up (cleaning a few valves, the intake manifold, then changed the spark plugs) $700 and the car was back to normal.

You gotta love a Honda. The energizer bunny of cars.
 
right... new cars do definitely come with a load of gadgets you may never use. My duaghters' car does...altho' she uses all her gadgets, but I wouldn't want it.... currently I have been given a brand new replacemnt car by the Insurance company..it's been sat out there for over a week..I can't drive it, but it's keyless, brake handle less.. and every gadget you can think of in it...

The car I'm going to look it in the showroom is just a basic car.. 3 years old 20k on the clock.. it has very basic stuff... air con, electric windows...rear parking camera, Bluetooth ... Dab radio.. and not much else tbh... which is why it's 2k cheaper than it's predecessor which is 3 years older thn it.. that they're selling.. so 6 years old.. same car... but has all the gadgets including heated seats and heated steering wheel..

So if I want all the gadgets, for the same model car... I would have to pay £2k more for an older version.... ...

I'm not stupid... !!
I know what you mean about excess gadgets. Why make life more complicated than it already is?
 
Back
Top